You may not realize that mailboxes come in so many shapes and sizes. You’ll find that even specialty mailboxes are easy to find, with “big box” stores and online vendors carrying many options. To explore the range of possibilities, type “decorative mailboxes” into your favorite Internet search engine and prepare to be astounded. Keep in mind, however, that customized mailboxes must be approved by your postmaster. The United States Postal Service (USPS) has standards for curbside mailboxes which include:

• The bottom of the box should be between 41 to 45 inches from the road surface, and 6 to 8 inches from the road edge or front of curb.
• You name and house number should be at least one inch high, and advertising is prohibited.
• Posts and supports should be kept neat and ideally should bend or fall away if struck by a vehicle.

For additional information, check out the USPS website at
www.usps.com/receive/mailboxstandards.htm.

Design Options
An easy way to give new life to a plain mailbox is by using a magnetic wrap. Such an adornment can be changed quickly to match the season, or to celebrate special occasions, holidays, special interests and more. If you fancy yourself particularly crafty, however, try your hand at your own painted design. A custom paint job not only shows off your personality, but gives you an enjoyable, easy do-it-yourself project to accomplish one summer day.

Begin by sanding your old mailbox with a sand block, or start with a new, unpainted mailbox. Next, apply a metal primer followed by your base color, and be sure to choose a water-resistant metal paint. Once the paint has dried, draw or stencil your design with a dry-erase marker. Again, use an acrylic water-resistant paint for metal, then paint your design. After it dries, wipe off any remaining dry-erase marks, and use a clear sealant to protect against water and weather. Consider a solid, bold color to match your front door, or animal prints, flowers and vines, dragonflies and butterflies, a stenciled monogram…these are just a few ideas to inspire you. Just be sure to leave room for your name and/or house number to adhere to USPS guidelines.

Indeed, the rose has a long and storied history. It dates back thousands of years and flourished even in ancient times. It is believed that the Chinese were the first to cultivate roses; the ancient Greeks and Romans were crazy about them too. Fortunately for us, colonists heading for the New World in the 16th century brought roses to cultivate here. In 1798, France’s Empress Josephine Bonaparte created a remarkable rose garden including every known variety at the time. In 1986, President Ronald Reagan proclaimed the rose as our country’s national flower. Roses are truly a global phenomenon.

Ask any “rosarian,” the official term for a bona fide rose expert certified by the American Rose Society, if the rumors about roses being difficult to grow are true, and they’ll likely deny it. They’ll insist that there is a rose for every garden, but the key to success is picking the right one for your area, your yard and your taste.

As you learn more about roses, you may quickly realize that a PhD might be necessary to understand the many thousands of rose varieties and the variety of ways to classify them. At the most basic level of understanding, however, it’s helpful to know that roses are divided into classes based on their date of introduction. The divisions include species roses, which have been growing in the wild for thousands of years; Old Garden roses, which include those introduced before 1867 when the first hybrid rose was created; and Modern roses, those introduced after 1867.

Within these divisions, roses are further classified based upon their physical characteristics like their growth habits, foliage and flower forms. Some of the most common roses you’ll see in our area include landscape roses, which are actually flowering shrubs that bloom repeatedly throughout the season and tend to be the most fuss-free; hybrid tea roses, which are the classic long-stemmed beauties that typically hold one blossom at the end of each flowering stem; grandifloras, which are much like hybrid teas but produce small clusters of blossoms; miniatures, the scaled-down versions that bloom abundantly and repeatedly; and climbers, which produce long and strong canes that can be tied and trained to grow up to 30 feet. Because the many options and classifications can be overwhelming, it’s best to consult the experts at the garden center where you buy your roses; they’ll have the best information about what will work for you, and can steer you in the right direction if you are new to the rose culture.

Planting Roses in Your Garden
Roses are sold two ways: as bare-root plants, to be purchased and planted in early spring, and as container-grown plants, available for planting almost any time. If you are new to planting roses, it’s a good idea to check the pH of your soil; experts suggest that the soil’s pH should be in the 6.0 to 6.8 range. If it’s not, you can amend the soil for best results (agricultural limestone to raise pH, sulfur to lower it). Working some organic matter into the soil is also a great investment of time; doing so will improve the soil’s capacity to hold water and other nutrients.

There are a few fundamentals critical to rose success. Probably first and foremost, roses need water—and lots of it. Because they are such thirsty creatures, it is unlikely that they can ever get too much water if they are planted in a well-drained location. For while they love to drink, they don’t like to sit in waterlogged soil. They prefer a long, deep watering, rather than frequent light waterings; this allows the water to reach and nourish the root zone. To figure out the right amount of water for your roses, consider this helpful tip: dig a hole with a small trowel a few days after you’ve watered. If the soil is still moist to a depth of 2 to 3 inches, your rose is happy. If it’s dry, it’s time to water. Watch for signs of underwatering, including wilting shoots at the top of the bush, and signs of overwatering, when lower leaves turn yellow and drop.

Be sure to focus your watering efforts on the soil, not the foliage; wet foliage encourages growth of fungal diseases like black spot. Drip-irriagtion systems or soaker hoses are ideal for watering roses, but if you do use a traditional sprinkler system, be sure to do your watering early in the morning to give the leaves ample time to dry.

Roses also need a good dose of sunlight, at least 6 hours of sun per day—though they do enjoy a little afternoon shade (like the rest of us!). A good mulching of two to four inches (pine bark, cedar chips, pine straw) around the rose bush will protect it by conserving water as well as providing a nice layer of insulation, keeping the roots cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

Roses also like a regular dose of nutrients—probably every four weeks or so during the summer—to provide the best blooms. If you have newly planted roses, wait until after their first flush of blooms before fertilizing. Water your roses before fertilizing to avoid burning the rose’s surface feeder roots. Your local garden center can recommend the best fertilizer and recommended application, whether organic matter (bone meal, fish emulsion, alfalfa meal) or synthetic fertilizer (dry, liquid or foliar). It’s equally important to know when to stop fertilizing; after feasting and blooming all summer, your roses need a cue to slow down on the blooms and get ready for winter dormancy.

One of the main reasons roses have the reputation for being fussy is because of their susceptibility to some pests and diseases; blackspot, powdery mildew and spider mites are a few common rose ailments in our area. Though some problems are unavoidable, take a hint from old Ben Franklin: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Well-tended, healthy plants are less likely to fall prey to pests. Keep the area around the plant free of fallen leaves and flowers, and remove discolored leaves when you see them. If you notice a recurring problem, take a damaged leaf to the garden center for advice. Some fungicidal or insecticidal spraying may be in order, but your solution may be as simple as removing the damaged foliage or spraying leaves with a strong blast of water to manually remove the offenders.

Some types of roses that bloom only once don’t need to be deadheaded, but most roses that bloom all summer need this process to encourage more blooms. To deadhead, cut the flower back to just above a healthy leaf with five leaflets. Experts suggest, however, that if you are working with a new plant that has only a few stems, it’s best to remove as few leaves as possible, even if that means cutting just below the flower. The important thing to note is that deadheading encourages new growth. Stop deadheading about a month before the first fall frost; you don’t want your roses to produce new growth that might be damaged by cold.

Enjoying Roses Inside
Cutting roses to bring inside to display is a win-win situation; you’ll be inspired by the beauty and your plant will be inspired to produce more blooms. For the best bouquets, cut early in the morning, or the late afternoon or early evening. Choose stems with flower buds that are no more than half open, and cut just above a leaf to encourage more stem growth. Place cut flowers directly in a bucket of warm water and move to a cool place; if you can spare the time, it’s worth it to leave the roses immersed like this for an hour or so. Recut the stem on an angle before placing in a vase, removing any foliage below the water level in the vase. One stem is beautifully simple in a small bud vase, but roses are also ideal companions in mixed bouquets.

This summer, bring a little history, a dash of drama and a touch of celebrity to your yard by incorporating the rose. Get to know this superstar flower that truly stands the test of time.

The photos accompanying this story were taken at The Old City Cemetery in Lynchburg during their annual Antique Rose Festival. Visit gravegarden.org for more information.

Always present in the decadent plantation homes of the South, plantation shutters are a statement piece. Using them throughout the house not only complements windows but brings continuity to a home.

“The appeal is that it’s window furniture, and it gives a room a real classic style,” says interior designer Mercedes Mosby, who owns Show-Case Shutters. She has yet to find a window that she can’t put a shutter on or a window that can’t be transformed from plain ugly to dazzling with the help of a shutter.

A trellis, pergola or gazebo may also be used to conceal an undesirable view. These are also available in wood (cedar is a very popular, attractive option) or vinyl. They can be used as an anchor for many trailing plants, and built to fit the area you wish to cover.

For areas of the lawn where you may have a water meter or well cover, homeowners may consider a faux well or meter cover. These typically come in the form of a decorative rock or boulder. Available sizes run the gamut. They blend into the landscape very well, and can even be the highlight of a small flower garden planting area. Another item to add to an area like this may be a lantern post with a decorative outdoor light. A flagpole could certainly be the centerpiece of this type of arrangement as well.

The most visually appealing method used to conceal unsightly areas around the home is the use of plants, trees and shrubs. For lower-lying areas, the use of ornamental grasses is a great option. These decorative outgrowths of green or variegated vegetation will improve the view of any unpleasant-looking sections of lawn. Of course there are many varieties of plants and shrubs available to mask unsightly areas as well. Evergreen shrubs are always a good choice, as they are low maintenance and can be trimmed to fit the height and width of the space you wish to conceal. Some other common border plants are azaleas (which will grow as large as you allow them), various species of hawthorne, and forsythia. Also very popular are boxwoods and many varieties of rose bushes. Crepe myrtles are always an excellent choice. A visit to your local garden center will help you decide the best option for your individual situation.

An increasingly popular garden landscape item is a bench, imparting the look and feel of a park. Available in metal, plastic, wood or concrete, a bench is a good option to conceal unsightly pipes or other essential utility items visible in our lawns.

Pavers or retaining wall blocks may also be used to transform an undesirable view into a work of art. They can be used to create a beautiful planting area or simply arranged to mask an unsightly object or section of lawn.

While there are many options available to conceal the less attractive areas around our homes, we should always be safety-conscious when considering improvements. The utility company must always have access to the electric or water meters. The gas company will need a clear path to fill the tank when it’s low. With these considerations in mind, installing a creative enclosure around these areas will enhance the look and appeal of your home and all of your landscape efforts.

Materials like granite, marble, travertine, soapstone, limestone and quartz provide our homes with both muted and vibrant hues and dynamic patterns that seem to flow. Grays and taupes; earth tones and neutrals; blacks, greens, blues and purples are all there for the taking.

These heavy stone slabs are culled from all over the country, with some of the more exotic colors and patterns coming from as far away as Brazil, Italy, India, Norway and Saudi Arabia. These materials can take our homes from functional to upscale.

Options From Nature
“We like to work with the natural stones just because they’ve come straight from the earth,” says Page Eggleston, owner of Spectrum Stone Designs in Lynchburg. “If you want some movement and you want more character, you definitely want to choose a natural stone.”

Pros like Eggleston love to use granite in kitchens. It is a long-standing favorite among local homeowners as well. While the glossy mirror-like granite was once all the rage, today’s granite now features a textured matte finish that begs to be caressed. Eliminate the shine and coldness and ask for granite with a leather finish or a honed finish. It changes the whole feel of a room, making it warm and dramatic all at once.

Granite has overtaken marble in popularity in part because of its durability. But it is not indestructible. Some refer to granite as heat- and scratch-resistant, yet distributors recommend that owners use trivets or hot pads, and to take care when working on this countertop. Some types of granite do need to be sealed, and even then, there is a risk of staining. Whether it has to be resealed or not is determined by the use, cleaning method and type of granite. It works well on kitchen counters both indoors and out.

Basic granite starts at about $50 per square foot, but the cost varies dramatically based on the stone. The amount of veining—where the sediment has been carried through the stone to create patterns—changes the price, as does the color. The more exotic, the higher the cost. In return, granite can increase the value of your home.

Another choice that you can’t go wrong with is quartz, says Tracy Kearney, certified kitchen designer and owner of Cornerstone Cabinets & Design. Quartz is unique because it is real stone mixed with resin that creates a countertop strong enough to stand up to even the craziest lifestyle. Pigments can be added to match the owner’s needs and wants. On its own, quartz is the fourth-hardest material in the world, right behind diamonds, sapphires and topaz.

“With families that have a high frequency of activities, we always recommend the quartz. It’s just great,” says Kearney. It is stronger than granite, but can lack its character. A bonus is that this hybrid stone offers a repeating pattern, which means no surprises. The final piece will look exactly like the sample. Other stones will vary, sometimes dramatically, in color and pattern.

Despite the presence of resin, this stone needs to be sealed, and resealed every three to five years. Quartz is recommended for kitchen counters rather than other spaces that may not need such strength. Quartz is touted as being resistant to all manner of offenses: stains, scratches, heat, burns, mold, mildew, chips and cracks. At the same time, distributors recommend that users place trivets or hot pads under hot items to prolong the life of the quartz.

The cost for the most plain and simple of quartz patterns starts at about $60 per square foot.

More Eco-Friendly Options
Stone countertops don’t work for every household or every room. However, there is an option for every need, from laminate made to look like natural stone to cultured marble, to cement, soapstone, bamboo and recycled materials. The choices carry you from one end of the price scale to the other.

Cultured marble is a popular choice for countertops in bathrooms. It’s economical, offers countless color options and is incredibly customizable. It is not thick, though, and can be scratched, so it is best used in lower traffic areas like powder rooms and bathrooms.

Cement countertops are exactly what you think. In a kitchen, cement can be elevated to a colorful, trinket-filled countertop. The sky is the limit with cement because is it 100 percent customizable, says Tiffany Griggs of Signature Cabinetry & Design. Tints can be swirled in to make the desired colors, and items can be hand-pressed into the wet cement. Shell collector or golfer, you can have your signature items cemented into your countertop as part of the decor. Note that cement needs to be sealed to keep out stains. Feedback on longevity is mixed, with some pros finding cement as strong as stone, others saying that it is delicate, and cracks just like sidewalks.

Soapstone is a special breed among the countertop choices. Unlike other natural stones, part of its allure is in how attractive it becomes as it ages, darkening with a patina. It is also unique in that it will not absorb anything. Any marks left on the stone can be rubbed out with a light piece of sandpaper. The nicked area will always return to the same gray-blue color as the rest of the stone. It is a natural for bathrooms because of its beauty and softness, smooth like talc to the touch.

For something natural yet shockingly strong, look to bamboo. “It gives a room character. It makes a room warm, and it’s ‘green’ and user-friendly,” says Griggs.

If being green is just as important to you as beauty, you need to step up to Vetrazzo or PaperStone, both made of recycled products. Vetrazzo, still not mainstream in part because of price, is the result of beautiful shards of glass blended into palettes such as “Chivalry Blue,” “Palladian Gray” and “Alehouse Amber.” With Vetrazzo, no two pieces are made alike, so you are guaranteed a work of art unlike any other. PaperStone is exactly what the name implies: Paper made to be strong like stone. In this case, recycled paper is mixed with resin to create kitchen and bath countertops that can be molded and shaped just like wood.

The cost differences are vast based on the material and distributor. You can get your hands on laminate that even the pros find beautiful for a few hundred to $1,500 for the whole shebang. Cultured marble will only set you back about $25 per square foot, while recycled glass will cost $90 to $130 per square foot. Many other items can be priced upon request when you call a professional.

Before You Buy
With so many options, it’s hard to choose the right one. To start, find the one thing in the room that you love; that piece should be the absolute highlight of that room. Let it lead you. Everything else you choose should work around it. Your countertops should add to the room and make that centerpiece pop, rather than call attention away from it, unless of course you want the counter to be the highlight.

Think of the feeling you want to evoke in the room. Do you want the powder room to feel modern, warm, earthy? Do you want your kitchen to evoke a sense of tradition, or to have a light, airy feel? Decide what you want the room to feel like, or how you want it to make people feel. Share these thoughts with your designer; he or she needs to know this.

Make mixing and matching a priority. Place stone on the countertop and bamboo on the butcher block, or inlay wood on a stone countertop. Wrap a dark granite trim around a white granite countertop. The goal is to mix textures or colors, but to avoid competing patterns.

And by all means, buy the unusual pattern or the most expensive piece of stone that is breathtaking. Purchase that piece you can’t live without. But know that those special pieces should be small and savored. Make them into treasures and place them in a master bath or powder room, say design professionals Tina Quillian and Cynde Buckles of Lynchburg Design Company Creative Interiors. Both designers love marble because it is a natural stone that dresses things up. Because is it softer than granite and can stain, they say it’s one of those special pieces ideal for the bathroom.

A rule that shall not be broken in your search for counter perfection: Personally view the entire slab you wish to purchase. “You want to know exactly what you are getting,” says Buckles. If there is a lot of visual movement in the small sample you see, you may see a tremendous variation in the slab. What may look like a green sample can turn out to be a pink countertop.

When selecting stones, remember this: the busier the pattern, the more attention it will draw. “Always bear in mind the total effect and what is going to have to go with it,” says Buckles. That means simplifying everything else is a must. If the room is already busy, opt for stones that are plain.

Changing your countertops, says Griggs of Signature Cabinetry & Design, “is the easiest and most economical way to spruce up your room.” Admittedly, it’s not a simple task. It will put you out of your kitchen for several days, and in the beginning, the choices can seem overwhelming. In the end, the breathtaking beauty of a new countertop makes up for all the angst.

Although avoiding allergens seems next to impossible, it is not necessary to strip your house of everything that you love to create an allergy-free area. Allergy sufferers can improve the quality of their lives by understanding how allergens function and focusing on basic allergen control.

According to Dr. Charles Lane of Allergy Partners in Lynchburg, “Over the past 30 years, the number of people suffering with allergies is definitely on the rise.” Viral infections, as well as exposure to certain chemicals and indoor and outdoor pollutants, all contribute to developing allergic responses. Understanding the causes of an allergic response is the first step to controlling allergies.

Outside allergens include tree, grass and weed pollens and molds. To help avoid allergic reactions, clean out gutters where leaves collect and decay. Rid the garden of decaying garden debris that creates mold spores. Consider using stones as mulch instead of tree bark.

Lane explains that dust mites, mold, mildew and animal dander are the major indoor culprits. Dust mites are probably the biggest source of home allergies. The proteins in the fecal pellets of dust mites cause the allergic response, and they can accumulate in anything upholstered, in carpeting, draperies, bedding, pillows, stuffed toys and more.

Since about one-third of a person’s day is spent in the bedroom, concentrate on cleaning that room first. To avoid dust mites, place pillows and mattresses in impermeable covers to form barriers through which allergens cannot pass. Dr. Lane recommends that bedding be washed once a week in hot water above 130 degrees to kill dust mites (cold water is ineffective). Stuffed toys can also be washed; however Lane points out “a washed stuffed toy never looks quite the same.” Instead, place the toy in a plastic zip-lock bag and leave it in the freezer overnight. This will kill the offending mites without destroying the integrity of the toy.

For those allergic to cat and dog dander, minimize the allergic person’s contact with the pet and keep it out of that person’s bedroom. After children play with a pet, have them change their clothes. Just being near clothing concentrated with dander can cause an allergic response, not only to the one wearing the clothes but to anyone coming into contact with that person.

If you clean regularly, it is possible to rid the house of much of the dust and mold that causes allergic responses. Vacuum carpets, upholstered furniture, draperies and other areas that cannot be washed. Make sure that your vacuum has a HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filter. Keep things simple. Avoid open shelving and clutter. Store as much as possible in drawers and closets and keep closet doors closed.

Beyond Routine Housecleaning
According to Keith Kessler of Efficient Air Solutions in Lynchburg, “It is very important to clean the ventilation system.” He explains that the air in a home is constantly recirculated, and once pollutants get into the system they must be filtered out. He points out the necessity of maintaining clean, good-quality air filters. Vacuum them weekly, especially if there is a lot of activity in the household. Keep a check on humidity levels. They should be maintained between 45 and 50 percent. Dust mites need moisture to survive, and the installation of a dehumidifier can work wonders to curtail infestation. Install a centralized system or at least a room dehumidifier in the bedroom.

Consider installing a centralized air cleaner or an individual room air cleaner. Models on the market today do a remarkable job at filtering air and trapping allergens such as dander and pollen. Dr. Lane provides a word of caution when using electrostatic filters that produce ozone, however; ozone can affect asthma sufferers.

Another key element in allergen control is the heating and cooling system, and particularly the ductwork. “Ductwork notoriously leaks,” explains David Mosley of Mosley Heating and Air. He believes it is the most important feature in controlling allergens in the home. As it leaks, it draws air from non-desirous places like the attic, crawl space and walls. Damp air combines with dust and dirt, resulting in mold. Unfiltered air goes through the ducts and into the living space. Mosley recommends checking for leaks and sealing them. He says that the best way to control allergies is to “attack it at all ends.” Make sure that the air filtration system is in good working order, service the heating and cooling units on a regular schedule, and inspect duct work.

Allergy control begins at home. Focus on the basics. You can maintain quality indoor air with these measures: routine cleaning, adequate filtration systems, ensuring that your heating and cooling system is working properly, and controlling household humidity. With these simple steps, allergy sufferers can work to avoid the sneezing and wheezing that comes with every season.