This spring, before you jump into your usual mulch routine, consider how a new approach might enhance your yard. For gardens small to large, mulch adds a finishing touch, and protects your plants to boot. So, with delightfully warmer, sunny days ahead, consider the many mulching options available to improve any landscape.

Mulch comes in a variety of materials and colors, and helps to protect both the soil and root systems; certain types even work to replenish nutrients in the soil. Your options for mulch come in two main varieties—organic and inorganic materials.

Organic Mulch Packs Nutrient-Rich Punch
Organic mulch comes from natural components. A disadvantage of organic is that it is not long-lasting, and may need to be replenished often. However, it will add nutrients to the soil through the process of decomposition. Different types include:

BARK OR WOOD CHIPS. Composed of bark and other small pieces of wood, wood chips or shavings, this mulch will give a manicured look to any garden. Various types of wood available are cypress, pine bark, waste wood, red mulch, and cedar.

COCOA BEAN HULLS. The delicious scent will keep you in the garden all day long. An aesthetic addition to flowers, this mulch also adds vital nutrients to the soil. It is recommended for use in sunny areas to prevent mold.

COMPOST. If you already have a compost pile, you’re a step ahead of the game. Use anything from yard waste—leaves, grass clippings, small twigs—to natural household items like coffee grounds, newspapers, and fruit and vegetable peels. Make sure your compost pile is aged and free of weed seeds. It is often used as the first layer, with a layer of attractive organic mulch—like bark—on top.

MANURE. Like compost, manure is primarily used as a first layer to provide nutrients. As long as it is rotted, it won’t stink up the yard, but it doesn’t get any points for aesthetic value; you may also want to cover it with a nicer-looking mulch.

Inorganic Materials Give Long-Term Protection
BLACK PLASTIC. This material is suitable for use with trees and shrubs, or in vegetable gardens that do not require regular fertilization. Plastic will keep the soil warm and block weed growth, air and water. To allow moisture in, holes can be cut in the plastic. A thin layer of wood chips is often used to create an appealing visual, but be careful not to overheat the soil with the added layer of insulation.

LANDSCAPE FABRIC. The fabric allows water and air to pass through to the soil while protecting against weeds. Like plastic, fabric can be topped with bark or wood chips.

ROCKS AND GRAVEL. If you are looking for a permanent addition to your landscaping, this may be the right material for you. This type of mulch is recommended for use around foundational plants, or areas that require good drainage. Although heavy to move, this option will keep the weeds at bay, especially when used with landscaping fabric.

RUBBER MULCH. The rock star of inorganic mulch, rubber seems to offer everything. It allows water to get to the soil without absorbing any on the way, insulates the ground better than wood chips, reduces weed growth, is a barrier to weed seeds, and comes in a variety of colors. The only thing rubber doesn’t do is add nutrients to the soil.

When deciding which material is right for you, keep in mind your mulching needs. The look of rocks might appeal to you, but if you are planting a small flower garden, cocoa bean mulch is a more suitable choice. It allows you to tend to the soil and adds nutrients to keep your flowers thriving. Is your landscaped area visible to neighbors and house guests? Choose a mulch that offers aesthetic value and easy upkeep. You also may need to use more than one material to achieve your desired effect.

Practical Matters
Before you mulch, take a few things into consideration:

• Remove all weeds, and water your plants before mulching.

• Make sure the soil has had time to warm. A rule of thumb is to wait until mid-to-late spring to begin. Use your prep time to hunt out the best prices in your area.

• Don’t overdo it; your plants should flourish because of the mulch, not suffocate from too much.

• The coarser the material, the thicker the layer should be. Aim for three to four inches of coarse mulch and one to two inches of finer mulch. Use as many inches as you would like over areas that will not have any growth.

With fresh mulch, you can breathe new life into your dormant landscape, and jumpstart your way into the warmer months.

As a mother of three who loves to travel, I have countless photos to remind me of my loved ones and journeys. The problem is that those photos are either stashed away in boxes, stored on my computer, or languishing on photo websites. Though it’s easy to maintain our digital holding ground in this technological age, some of those photos deserve a rightful place in our homes to be enjoyed. Standing alone or artfully grouped, framed photographs are perhaps one of the quickest, easiest decorating staples we can all use to personalize our homes.

Going through old pictures may also provide inspiration for choosing images to frame. If you are still at a loss for which photos to frame, commit to printing and framing one or two shots the next time you get out the camera for an event. Starting out slowly will provide you with the inspiration you need to create a meaningful arrangement of photographs.

Frame Your Photographs
A frame can either distract from or enhance a photo; perhaps this pressure is what makes choosing a frame so difficult. Lamar Cecil, who co-owns The Silver Thistle with his wife Geri, has some ideas that eliminate the guesswork in selecting a frame. He suggests looking around the room where the collection of photographs will be placed, and ask yourself what color works in the room and what level of formality are you trying to achieve. He says, “Think of the subject matter [of the photograph]. If you have a picture of your grandmother in her wedding dress, you should not pick something modern because you will have a disconnect between the photo and the subject matter.” Also consider that while the frame needs to be attractive, it should not be the principal object of attention.

You must also consider if the frame will stand alone or be part of a grouping or vignette. This will help you avoid choosing a frame “that will be in a jarring relationship with the other photos in a grouping,” he says. For example, a whimsical frame is best kept as statement piece on its own, rather than being placed with other frames. If you are creating a grouping, use the same type of frame to keep the focus on the photos and not on the frames themselves. Cecil suggests wood or metal, but even sticking to one color will work for a collection. “Multiple frame styles will bring the attention to the frames, not the photos,” he explains. If you prefer the eclectic look, then opt for similar styles of varying sizes. Also keep in mind that some photos sit well in larger frames with a big surround (think 4×6 photo in an 11×14 frame), which will give the photo greater emphasis.

Before you start, you might want to set a budget for your photo vignette. Frame prices vary tremendously, so have a price range in mind before the shopping begins. Perusing local thrift stores, antique shops and yard sales will also help you build your collection of frames, especially when a fresh coat of paint can unify your found treasures.

Adorn Your Home with Photos
Creating a grouping of photos in your home will create a visual impact. Symmetrical placement is pleasing to the eye, yet an assortment of varying heights and sizes adds an element of diversity to the display. Be sure that the photos can all be viewed easily, as your family and even guests will enjoy perusing the mix of photos you have created; photos are great conversation-starters. Using easels will also create varying heights and add interest to your collection.

Bookshelves are an excellent background for photos. Stack books and place a framed image on top, or create a grouping to stand alone on a shelf without books. Even leaning larger framed photos against vertically stacked books will break up the monotony of an uninteresting bookshelf.

Rotating your photo collection from room to room or switching out the photos used in a display will help keep things lively and interesting. It may also help motivate you to get those images off the computer and into your home.

So wherever your photos are—in boxes, on your computer, or in frames from many years ago—take the time to revisit, reframe and rearrange. The vignettes you create will bring new life to old memories.

Additional Resources

• DYInetwork.com

• HGTV.com

• MarthaStewart.com

• House Beautiful The Home Book: Creating a Beautiful Home of Your Own by Carol Spier

• Photocraft: Cool Things to Do with the Pictures You Love by Caroline Herter et al.

In eighth grade, the girls in my middle school were required to take one year of Home Economics. The course was cleverly divided into two sections: cooking and baking the first semester, followed by sewing the second semester. Our teacher, Mrs. Blythe, (who wore a flour-dusted apron to match her flour-dusted hair) taught us to make all sorts of delicious goodies; the leftover brownies I handed out after class only increased my popularity index.

When second semester rolled around, however, the bloom was off the proverbial Home Ec rose as we prepared to undertake the onerous task of learning how to sew. Our final assignment was to craft a throw pillow; I chose a heart-shaped pattern with pale blue calico fabric accented with little pink flowers that would have made Laura Ingalls proud. Based on the pictures on the front of the pattern envelope, this creation was going to look swell on my bed. The fragile blue and pink colors would add some visual interest to my white candlewick bedspread, and the heart shape itself was emblematic of all my unrequited crushes.

But once the whispery pattern paper was out of the package and the mathematics of measuring, cutting, and threading the sewing machine needle loomed ahead of me, a debilitating mix of self-doubt and distraction rendered me useless to complete the project. While I scurried off to watch “The A Team,” my sainted mother picked up the pieces of my broken/unformed heart and completed the assignment. My heart-shaped pillow had a place of pride on my bed for years to come.

Happily, I have never had to repeat this failed sewing experiment. The scads of stores and local talent for creating this decorating staple are abundant, which leaves me to do the imagining and dreaming, rather than the actual work. As the darling of a decorated room, the throw pillow is a veritable jack-of-all trades wrapped in all sorts of beautiful packaging.

Throw pillows provide a little bit of function and a whole lot of punch to a decorating theme. Certainly, a plump pillow on a sofa makes the seating experience that much more comfortable, but a pillow can also add drama, excitement and a unique aesthetic to the room. Throw pillows are commonly used to tie in color accents within a room, often drawing on the colors in window treatments, walls or area rugs. The fabric possibilities for throw pillows are endless: silk, leather, microfiber, microsuede, suede, cotton, linen, hemp and almost any other fabric can be used to make a pillow.

The Anatomy of a Pillow
Pillows may be filled with a synthetic filling, a combination of down and goose feathers, or down (the lightest, fluffiest, most expensive feathers). While down is certainly the softest and most luxurious, it tends to lose its shape with frequent use. Synthetics hold their shape, but can be stiff and unyielding. Perhaps the best of all worlds is the feather-down blend, which holds its shape, stays soft, and is moderately priced.

The least expensive option is to buy a ready-made pillow that is stuffed with polyester fiber fill (commonly known as “poly”). Such pillows do not have a removable inside form, so you lose the ability to swap covers. A more expensive choice is to buy a pillow that has an insert made of a down and feather blend. Also available is a down-like poly fill that is hypoallergenic.

The most luxurious choice of all is the pillow with an insert made of a down and feather combo, with down as the primary filler. As the percentage of down inside the pillow increases, so does the price, though it’s not exorbitant. (A standard square insert made of down costs approximately $20.) The blend gives the pillow a soft, plump, decadent feeling.

Heather Kinder, owner of “Spaces by a little french”, says that she can always tell at a glance (and a quick touch) which pillows are filled with down based on how soft a pillow is. Local designer and seamstress Kim Loflin finds that a down blend feels plusher, is easier to fit into the fabric case, and frankly, just looks better. Moyanne Harding, of Interiors by Moyanne, says her favorite pillow insert is an 80/20 down blend.

Kinder recommends that, if the pillow you are purchasing contains down, you should be sure that it is encased in down-proof ticking. Ticking is a type of fabric that can be used as a seal. Feel the pillow; if it’s prickly, it’s not down-proof. What you are feeling are actually the quills of the goose feathers poking through.

Zippers, envelope-style closures and ties allow you to remove the pillow cover from the insert for easy cleaning. While zippers are hidden near the seam, envelope closures on the back of the pillow as well as ties can be made of decorative elements and become an integral part of the design.

Pillows also come in many shapes and sizes to suit your tastes. Consider the following:

SQUARE: Mix up a few different sizes with this versatile shape. The most common sizes range between 18 and 22 inches.

RECTANGLE: The elongated proportions of a rectangular pillow are stylish at a sofa’s midpoint, flanked by groupings of square pillows.

BOX: Depth and dimension give a standard square throw pillow more structure.

ROUND: A circular pillow tends to have a retro look and plays well against a squared-off seat and back.

ROUND BOX: A round pillow with a few inches of thickness gives dimension to the basic round pillow.

BOLSTER: Use these accents on both ends of a couch like armrests, or on a bed.

FLOOR PILLOWS: (32″–36″ square) A family favorite, especially in children’s rooms. They provide both form and function in a room, as well as a playful element.

All the Pretty Details
Kim Loflin approaches pillow-making much like painter would approach the canvas. She sees endless possibilities for combining fabric with buttons, trim, and other embellishments which make her final product captivating and charming. Some trims that are most frequently used include:

ROPE: Use rope trim to add texture and color to the edge of a pillow.

RIBBON: Use ribbon to accentuate the shape of a pillow.

POM-POMS: The ultimate in playfulness! Dancing pom-poms are a sweet touch to a pillow, especially one used in a child’s room.

TASSELS: This type of trim brings a sense of movement and style to a final product, but can get caught easily. (Cats are especially drawn to this swingy stuff!)

FRINGE: Loop fringe provides the perfect upscale complement to a pillow.

BANDING: Decorative banding is Harding’s favorite trim for a throw pillow; she says it can be easier to maintain than other trims like tassels.

The Versatility of a Pillow
Throw pillows are a perfect vehicle through which you can convey your personality, family tradition, or simply showcase a beautiful piece of fabric without monopolizing your entire decorating scheme. Use a throw pillow as an accent piece, much like you would a painting or objet d’art. Harding likes to use specialty pillows to dress up a bed-—for example, one knock-out embroidered pillow or an appliquéd pillow with a Byzantine flavor—“anything that gives the room an exotic flair,” she suggests.

Yearning for a touch of whimsy? Think of the cheeky little pillows that have quotations on them, such as, “If you have nothing nice to say then come sit by me” (Alice Roosevelt Longworth) or “Women are like wine…they get better with age” and the like. Placing throw pillows with saucy sayings or unusual graphics (how about a photo of your dog?) is a non-invasive way to infuse a little humor and spark conversation. Or, add a youthful punch by arranging pillows in unusual color groupings, such as a playful pile of bold colors against otherwise traditional furnishings.

Kinder suggests using unexpected fabrics and items to craft into throw pillows, such as a child’s dress, Dad’s old sweater, a vintage napkin or tablecloth, an afghan, scarves, vintage grain sacks, rugs, or tapestry. This type of pillow works especially well in a less formal area, such as a child’s room or family room. Using loved items is a great way to recycle and keep a bit of family tradition alive. An upholsterer, seamstress or decorator with a commercial-grade sewing machine can probably accommodate such a request.

Needlepoint is a centuries-old hand craft that may be used to create gorgeous, opulent looking pillows. Typically, the needlepoint appears on just one side of the pillow, while a coordinating and often less-expensive fabric serves as the other side. Harding says that embroidered pillows, too, are a hot trend for spring.

Using a throw pillow as an accent is also the perfect opportunity to splurge on that sumptuous fabric you’ve been eyeing. As most throw pillows only require a fraction of the fabric yardage than a larger project, such as draperies or upholstery, you may be more likely to treat yourself to the very expensive fabric that you love for two accent pillows. In most cases, a similar effect can be achieved at a much lower cost.

There’s nothing quite like a quick and easy swapping of throw pillows to usher in a new season or holiday. One local homeowner’s overall neutral palette (think taupe and ivory) provides a soothing background for her accessories. This spring, she will add pops of fresh color with her lime green throw pillows, candle holders, ceramics and vases. Come autumn, she’ll store the lime green accents to make way for the richer hues of chocolate and orange. Likewise, a cheery Christmas-themed pillow amid a collection of other throw pillows is as much a part of December décor as the Christmas tree. In general, pillows made of linen or chintz provide a lighter look for spring and summer months, while velvet, chenille or corduroy work well for fall and winter.

Keep your eyes open to the myriad possibilities that throw pillows offer to your overall home decor. Retail stores, websites, and custom-made products by local talent will provide your room with just the flourish it needs.

When I stopped to consider how often I use the kitchen faucet each day, I quickly realized the importance of this small device to daily living. From getting water for coffee or cooking, to filling the watering can for plant care, to rinsing and washing dishes, the kitchen faucet allows me to conquer all sorts of routine tasks. And while a new faucet can be an easy upgrade to an old space, the endless possibilities can be overwhelming. If you’re shopping for a new faucet, you can find functionality as well as fashion in a wide range of price points, but it helps to understand some of your options.

Consumer “Must-Haves”
To gain perspective on what consumers are looking for in a new faucet, I surveyed a group of homeowners—diverse in their age and season of life—to see what they think is the most important feature to consider when purchasing a new faucet. Check out the variety of responses I heard!

20-something new homeowner: “…the look of it!”

30-something mom: “I only buy faucets that have a pull-out sprayer!”

40-something father: “The faucet must be easy to use.”

50-something empty-nester: “I like faucets that have a single lever for all functions; they are simple to use.”

60-something widow: “My faucets should look nice, but also be functional.”

70-something grandfather: “They need to be easy to use!”

Surprisingly, kitchen faucets are priced from about $40 to $1200 and up. With such a drastic range, you can refine your search by understanding the different finishes and designs that might fit your style, décor and budget.

The Design
First, determine the most functional faucet design to fit your everyday needs.

Single-handle faucets are convenient, enabling the user to adjust both the water flow and temperature with just one hand.

Dual-handle faucets allow for precise water flow and temperature, but have two separate controls—one for hot and one for cold.

Pull-out spray faucets allow you to pull the faucet out much like you would a hose, and target the spray. Side-spray units are another option, where this feature sits next to the faucet.

Wall-mounted faucets come out directly from the wall above the sink and provide a unique look compared to the other options.

Perhaps the most important thing in considering the design, if you are replacing an existing faucet, is to choose one that requires the same number of holes in the deck of the sink as the faucet that is being removed. Most faucets follow one of several standard hole patterns, and your easiest option is to work with the same sizes and numbers of holes. For example, if you are replacing your old faucet that also has a side-spray unit, and you choose a new pull-out spray faucet, you may be left with an extra hole in your sink deck.

The Finish
Determine the finish you prefer by considering both material and color.

Chrome is durable, tarnish-resistant, and the most popular faucet finish. Its classic appeal adds a silver shine to any sink and is available with a standard, brushed or polished appearance. From affordable options like the Delta Chrome Double-Handle Kitchen Faucet retailing around $50, to the Kohler Revival Brushed Chrome Double-Handle Kitchen Faucet with Side Spray retailing around $450, to the Kohler ProMaster Polished Chrome Single-Handle Kitchen Faucet with Pull-Down Spray retailing around $1,000, chrome represents a vast array of price points.

Nickel has regained the popularity it had prior to chrome’s introduction. A bit warmer in tone than chrome, nickel is a sophisticated finish, found most often with a brushed appearance. Nickel is also available in a range of price points. For example, Glacier Bay’s One-Handle Kitchen Faucet with Pull-Out Spray retails around $100, while Barclay’s Areco Brushed Nickel Single-Handle Kitchen Faucet with Side Spray retails around $830.

Stainless steel is fairly new on the market and is often chosen to match the sink and surrounding appliances. A basic choice like the American Standard Connoisseur Stainless Steel Single-Handle Kitchen Faucet with Side Spray will cost around $180, while the Grohe Ladylux Plus Stainless Steel Kitchen Faucet with Pull-Out Spray costs around $650.

Brass is a popular choice and is ideal when you desire a shiny gold hue. From a more ordinary design like the American Standard Hampton Polished Double-Handle Kitchen Faucet that retails around $200, to the luxurious Kohler Antique Polished Brass Single-Handle Kitchen Faucet with Side Spray that retails around $775, brass is also available at a variety of price points.

Bronze is rich, hearty, and adds a deep gold element of sophistication to a sink. Again varied in price, the Price Pfister Wakley Oil-Rubbed Bronze Single-Handle Kitchen Faucet with Side Spray retails for around $140, while the Kohler Vinnata Bronze Single-Handle Kitchen Faucet with Pull-Down Spray retails around $602.

Gold, for those desiring the ultimate faucet experience, is a finish option. Luxurious and bold, a faucet such as the Kohler Articulating Deck-Mount Kitchen Faucet with Gold Tube retails around $1,500 or higher.

The Extras
If there is something extra you wish for in the kitchen faucet, it is probably available! Some faucets include attached soap dispensers that can be filled from underneath the unit, yielding a sleek outward appearance. Others are available with built-in water filtration systems, enabling users to retrieve instantly pure water. Waterfall faucets add something extra by letting water cascade naturally from the spout into the sink. The possibilities are endless as increasingly unique designs are being developed. Set your budget before looking through all of the choices, and then find the most affordable option that best suits your taste and the atmosphere of the kitchen

Enjoying your backyard to its fullest often involves adding amenities like built-in barbecues, fireplaces, ponds, expanded patios or elegant walkways. To achieve such designs, homeowners often have to cut into or fill in the existing soil to create a suitable foundation for the project. Many times, a retaining wall is needed to create these features. A hilly backyard or steep slope may also call for a retaining wall. Whether creating a low wall for bed borders, walls for sitting in the garden, or a tall reinforced wall to tame a sloping bank, homeowners have many options for creating beautiful, functional walls.

One of the most popular options today that offers both affordability and aesthetic value is the use of segmental retaining wall blocks. Segmental blocks come in a variety of textures and colors, and can be used for projects large and small. Because they are mortarless, lightweight, and easy to stack and install, they have become a very popular alternative. The options are nearly limitless.

Building Your Wall
If you are considering a retaining wall project using segmental blocks, you’ll first have to determine how tall the wall will be; this will help you decide what size blocks to choose. If your wall will be less than 4 feet tall, a 3- to 4-inch-tall product makes the most sense. Walls taller than 4 feet will require some reinforcement and engineering, and should incorporate blocks in the 6- to 8-inch range. Picking the right product for your application is important. Though smaller projects can often be done in a “do-it-yourself” fashion, a qualified, experienced contractor can also help you select the appropriate wall system. It’s especially important to involve the pros when your wall is greater than 4 feet tall.

The next step is to consider the design of your wall. A professional installer can help lay out the location of the wall to determine exactly how tall and long it will be. The installer will consider if there are any slopes in front or behind the wall, and will consider how the wall relates to nearby structures. If the wall will be tiered, located near water, or in poorly drained areas, the installer may involve an engineer to properly design the wall. In most cases, your contractor will need a permit to construct a wall over 4 feet, and will need to submit engineering plans for approval by your county, town or city building office. The expense for engineering and permits should be included in your bid.

Check Before You Dig
Before constructing a retaining wall, you or your contractor are required by law to contact your local utility notification service, known as “Miss Utility,” 48 hours in advance of any digging. To do this, dial 811, a national “one call” service that is free and easy. Homeowners often make risky assumptions about whether or not they should get their utility lines marked, but every digging job requires a call—even small projects like planting trees and shrubs. Digging without calling can disrupt service to an entire neighborhood, harm you and those around you, and potentially result in fines and repair costs.

Basic Components

Whether you are building your own wall or hiring a contractor to install it, you should be aware of the minimum industry construction guidelines, as established by the National Concrete Masonry Association (NCMA).

For starters, it is important to have a firm and level ground surface to begin construction of a segmental retaining wall. The contractor will need to excavate a small trench below grade to create a leveling pad for the wall.

The leveling pad is a surface that is a minimum of 6 inches thick and about 24 inches wide, constructed with good road base material. This pad must be well compacted and should result in at least one block below grade. The minimum industry standard is to always bury at least 6 inches of the wall below grade, or 10 percent of the total wall height.

NCMA also recommends that segmental retaining walls have a drainage zone behind the wall block that is a minimum of 12 inches wide. In most cases, a 4-inch perforated drain pipe is also positioned in the drainage stone to collect any water. This pipe should drain from the wall at the face, or at the side of the wall if possible. Soil behind the wall must be well compacted and free of debris.

Manufacturers make durable concrete blocks to industry standards, addressing strength and dimensional tolerances, and help recommend the appropriate block size, shape and color. Most units also come with a solid capping block that is typically 3 or 4 inches thick. The caps are attached to the top course of the wall using concrete adhesive.

Reinforcing the Soil
Typically, walls 4 feet or taller need soil reinforcement such as geogrid, a polyester yarn that is woven or knitted into a stable structure with a PVC or polymeric coating. The requirements for the type, length and spacing of geogrid should always be done by a licensed professional engineer. Your contractor should always have an engineer he relies on to prepare plans and wall design calculations.

Segmental retaining walls are a durable and economical solution to incorporate elevation changes into a landscape design. Since they are manufactured to perform over the life of the structure, little or no maintenance is required. Because of the small unit sizes and variety of colors, textures and shapes, they provide incredible design options to fit almost any backyard scenario.

Kevin Earley is director of  commercial sales for Nicolock, a manufacturer of unit concrete products. Robert Powers is owner of P&W Architectural Stone & Landscaping LLC, a firm dedicated to the sale and installation of man-made and natural stone, hardscape systems and retaining walls.

Grow, grow, grow. That’s what all gardeners are praying now as trees and shrubs promise to bring new life to yards once again. Of course there are fertilizers and other plant foods for sale this season, but one of the best ways to stimulate growth is by pruning. As they say, “Out with the old, in with the new!”

Many plants go without this routine maintenance because homeowners lack knowledge on when and how to prune. Some are leery about drawing those shears on what they think is an unwilling victim. But it’s better to think of pruning as damage control—and tough love.

Pruning does wound plants, but “plants respond differently to wounding than do animals,” write Susan C. French and Bonnie Lee Appleton in their article on pruning on the Virginia Cooperative Extension (VCE) website. “In plants, damaged areas are covered by callus tissue to close wounds,” they explain. “Simply put: animal wounds heal, plant wounds seal.”

There are many benefits to plants when pruning is done correctly. Seasonal pruning can improve a plant’s overall health and even prevent personal injury and property damage for the homeowner.

With diseased and damaged parts removed from a plant, new tissue forms a barrier and can sometimes limit the spread of insects and disease, leaving you with less need for pest control. Pruning also helps control the size of a plant so that it doesn’t overcrowd others. In the case of trees, pruning can allow more air circulation and more sunlight in your yard to help other plants grow. Keeping large shrubs and trees away from utility lines is a must for safety, of course, and removing dead or low limbs is always a good idea, as the right pruning can reduce wind resistance in trees, according to VCE. Around walkways, it is always good to prune plants with thorny branches, or slithering groundcovers that could cause someone to trip.

When to begin, though? Well, just like raising children, it’s best to tackle a plant’s rough spots when they’re young, so they can rise to their full potential later on.

French and Appleton say it’s easier to shape trees and shrubs with hand pruners when a plant is young than to try to prune large branches later on with bigger tools. “As trees and shrubs mature, their forms may become unattractive. Pruning can restore vigor and enhance the appearance of these plants,” these experts say. But if time has passed you by and your plants are well out of the training stage, you can still prune effectively.

Become a Shear Genius on Pruning
Many trees, shrubs and groundcovers thrive in Virginia. Experts may differ on exact pruning times and methods, and the many landscape companies and garden centers in our area can help evaluate your specific situation. Here are some guidelines from VCE on a few of the most common plants that can be pruned here in the spring. For pruning calendars and more information on how to tackle different species, go to VCE’s website at ext.vt.edu.

CRAPE MYRTLE: The best time to prune these popular long-blooming summer trees is late winter or early spring prior to new growth. The worst thing you can do to a crape myrtle is to top it (a common mistake). Proper pruning technique is much like for any other tree or shrub. VCE says the first step is to cut out any dead or unproductive branches and any crossing or crowding branches in the center. Then make cuts in the direction of new growth. VCE explains, “The direction in which the top remaining bud is pointing will determine the direction of new growth.” Prune 1/4 inch above the bud, sloping down and away from it.

BUTTERFLY BUSH (BUDDLEIA): Because this bush blooms on new wood, it can become a monster if neglected. If you have a large area for it, and it’s not crowding out any other plants, then you may never have to prune at all.

BOXWOOD: VCE says boxwoods can be pruned from November through July. According to the United States National Arboretum website, thin boxwood with a bypass pruner. Reach inside about 6 inches and prune off the stem. Continue this until the small interior twigs become visible. When you are finished, about 10 percent of the outer branches should be removed.

AZALEAS AND RHODODENDRONS: VCE says there is little need for pruning these popular shrubs. But you can control their size and form with light pruning in May. For rhododendrons, remove the flower stems as soon as flowering is complete; break out only the dead flower cluster, not the young buds around its base. For azaleas, prune only when the shrub has lost its form. Pinch out the soft, new shoots of vigorous growing plants.

ROSES: Most serious rose gardeners know what an art it is to prune their prize varieties each year. But for the average grower, VCE suggests pruning in February and March, or July and August. Make cuts well below any diseased wood, and disinfect shears between cuts. Old stems can be removed to the ground yearly to renew.

Sharpen up your pruning tools

• HAND PRUNERS (BYPASS OR ANVIL): For stems up to 3/4 inches in diameter. Bypass: sharpened, curved, scissors-type blades that overlap. Anvil: straight upper blades that cut against flat lower plates. (Most experts recommend bypass pruners because anvils can crush stems as they cut, and the width can keep you from getting in far enough to make a close cut on narrow-angled stems.)

• LOPPING SHEARS: For branches up to 1 3/4 inches in diameter. For bigger jobs, use loppers with ratchet joints or gears. Also available with shock-absorbing bumpers between the blades to make the work easier on your arms.

• PRUNING SAWS: For stems you can’t cut with hand pruners or lopping shears. They come in many sizes, with either straight or curved blades, and teeth that are fine or coarse. Use a finely-toothed, curved pruning saw to remove branches up to
2 1/2 inches in diameter. Use a coarsely-toothed saw for branches 3 inches or more in diameter.

• POLE PRUNERS: Use on branches up to 2 inches diameter. Some pole pruners can reach as high as 12 feet or more.

Sources: Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, and Virginia State University.

Blakely also believes in what is formally called Aging in Place (AIP), which proposes the concept of remaining at home in a safe, familiar, comfortable environment for the rest of a lifetime. Blakely proposes that AIP “helps seniors look more into the type of living that they would want to have, and the type of lifestyle they want to live, before they have to go somewhere with skilled care.”

Physical ease and comfort top the list of priorities for seniors. “Seniors typically require main-level living when they transition to a home,” Blakely says. “Falls cause a lot of people to go into skilled care or a nursing home. It is easier for them to be on one level to prevent falls.” Simple things can also be modified for an existing home. “Careful attention to using levers instead of actual door knobs, which are much easier when arthritis sets in, or installing a ramp/wheelchair access from the garage instead of steps, are simple conversions that allow for more enjoyment in their homes,” Blakely explains.

Working with an experienced SRES-designated realtor has many benefits. You can find one by entering your city and state on seniorsrealestate.com.

Options in Community Living
Central Virginia also affords numerous choices for retirement community-style living. When researching this option, seniors should consider care levels, living arrangements, amenities, costs and more. Many locations in this area offer options that include independent living, nursing home care and assisted living on one campus, so residents can age in one community and also receive varying levels of care. For example, The Summit and Westminster Canterbury are each considered a Continuing Care Retirement Community (CCRC), a common industry term which describes communities that offer a range of services and living situations for seniors. Janna Bradley, director of marketing at The Summit, says, “When seniors go into independent living [here], they know that they can transition to skilled care, long-term care or assisted living as they need the care.” At residences such as The Summit, seniors who live independently can have peace of mind knowing that they can call for help 24 hours a day. Communities like this also offer respite care.

Westminster Canterbury also offers several levels of care. Susan Pettyjohn, director of marketing, says, “People know that when they come here, they will be able to receive a higher level of care. There is a lot of peace of mind. Couples can live out their lives together and do it with grace and dignity, even when health issues come up. If you live in the main building, you do not have to leave to go from one location to another. The fact that everything is connected makes it very easy on people who live here.” These are important considerations for couples who wish to live out their lives together under the same roof, yet still want the ability to receive individualized levels of care.

Assisted living facilities offer the comfort of prepared meals, medication management, laundry services and housekeeping services. Some facilities, like Heritage Green Assisted Living Communities in Lynchburg, focus solely on this option in which seniors can maintain some independence, yet receive help with daily living needs and have access to trained medical staff at all times. The Summit’s Bradley explains, “Assisted living addresses the activities of daily living. These are the things we take for granted such as bathing, dressing, meal preparation and being in a safe environment.”

Choices in Style, Space
Choosing the style of residence is another consideration for seniors, as many facilities offer a variety from apartment-style living to private garden villas. In Central Virginia, seniors can find anything from the 400-square-foot studio apartment to an 1800-square-foot cottage. Oftentimes these living spaces are either low-maintenance or maintenance-free.

Pettyjohn of Westminster Canterbury says that one of the most appealing aspects of that community is the maintenance-free, resort-like living. “As we grow older, we have less energy, and our type of living allows people to expend their energy in other ways besides doing yardwork and maintenance,” she explains. “The people who live here have a greater sense of security about the future because they know what that future entails. They do not have to deal with things that are normally part of daily life such as cleaning and windows. Those things are someone else’s responsibility,” she says.

Creating a comfortable atmosphere for those who live independently is achieved in residences with fully appointed kitchens, although residents can also take advantage of various dining facilities. “Some people do not like to cook, and there are a lot of opportunities to eat out here on campus,” suggests Pettyjohn. CCRCs offer varying flexible meal plans to accommodate the fluctuating needs of their clients. Ease for seniors is also considered with the addition of washers and dryers, and the option of regularly scheduled housekeeping.

Many seniors also wish to maintain an active lifestyle for both mind and body, which is where activities come into play. The Summit is on a 143-acre tract of land (40 are developed), which includes a lake and a walking trail. Most CCRCs offer various activities both on campus (Tai Chi, bridge, and Bible studies, for example) and off campus (such as trips to the symphony and plays). Residents of The Summit have the opportunity to join the local YMCA (which is within walking distance) at a reduced rate, while Westminster Canterbury has a fitness/wellness center along with a heated spa and Jacuzzi. Boonsboro Commons is convenient to Boonsboro County Club, which many residents enjoy. Seniors should factor in such current and potential interests when choosing their future homes.

Transportation is also a key element to a retirement community, as many seniors either cannot or choose not to drive. “People do not think about how their lives will change when they do not drive,” says Pettyjohn. Many CCRCs offer shuttles to and from the grocery store, doctor and beauty appointments, and other locations around town.

Counting the Costs
Additional fees are also something to consider when looking for a place to downsize. Many locations require what is called a “buy in” or entrance fee, while others simply rent units to their residents. Some charge monthly fees that can include maintenance (both interior and exterior), utilities (except cable and telephone at some locations), transportation, planned activities, medical care (at various levels), security and more. This type of CCRC fee structure allows those on a fixed income to better regulate and predict their monthly expenses.

Whether seniors are looking for a home that will suit their needs for the duration of their lives, or for a quality community in which to dwell with other like-minded adults, Central Virginia affords many options for safe, quality living.

Over the years, we Americans have loved our fad diets. But fortunately we’re learning more and more about sensible, healthy eating that offers more on the menu than grapefruit and cabbage soup. One diet that has gotten a lot of recent attention is the Mediterranean diet, featuring olive oil as one of its superstar ingredients. Besides being delicious, olive oil is high in monounsaturated fats, which are purported to reduce bad cholesterol without affecting good cholesterol, and it’s also high in antioxidants. According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, two tablespoons a day may reduce your chance of heart disease.

But here’s the challenge for savvy consumers: a trip to the grocery store turns up over 30 different brands—along with another dozen at the specialty food store down the street. How do you decide which one is the one for you? Let me tell you now: There is not one definitive answer, because it depends on several factors, including how and why you plan to use it. It helps to know a few basics when trying to choose the right olive oil.

Learn the Basics for Easy Shopping
Olive oil is pressed from olives, and the first press yields the fruity green liquid known as extra virgin olive oil. Additional pressings produce more oil, and the final extraction, in which chemicals and heat are used to expel the final bits of oil, produces something called pomace oil. Olive oil is also graded by acidity: Extra virgin olive oil has acidity of less than .8 percent and generally has a stronger flavor. Virgin olive oil is made from pure olive oil, with acidity of less than 2 percent. Pure olive oil, olive oil and pomace oil are usually a combination of olive oil and refined (pomace) oil. These distinctions may or may not be used in American markets; olive oil and the terms associated with it are not regulated, and producers sometimes include potentially misleading information on the label to increase shelf appeal. With a little time, and some good reading glasses, the type of oil and the country of origin can usually be determined from the back label.

Some olive oils have no discernible taste, while others can taste very strongly of pepper, fruit or green, grassy notes. Olive oil is like wine; everyone has a preference, and to find what that preference is, you need to experiment. Truthfully, olive oil is at its peak the day it’s pressed, and day by day, loses some of its flavor. In fact, some olive oils are sold with a pressing date on the label and are available only for a short time during the spring. Olive oil, like most oils, should be stored only for one year unopened, and about three to six months after opening, in a dark, cool location—so for best results steer clear of the huge jugs at the discount warehouse.

With olive oil, as with most other foods, the more it’s refined, the less of “the good stuff” (flavor and antioxidants) remains. If you are using olive oil strictly for its health benefits, it seems obvious that you should buy oils marked extra virgin or virgin olive oil. Although they are generally more expensive, look for oils that are unfiltered and unrefined.

Olive oil has cooking benefits too. It has a higher smoke point than some other oils, which means that you can sauté at a higher temperature than other fats like butter without risk of burning. But keep in mind that the special flavors are erased with high heat, so save your more expensive extra virgin olive oils for recipes like pesto, salad dressings or flavored dipping oils in which the taste of the oil is the attraction. One of my favorite dining experiences in Italy was a simple grilled fish, showered with coarse salt and fresh pepper and drizzled with a fresh, peppery extra virgin olive oil—simple but perfect! For cold or low-heat dishes—salad dressings, or for tossing with cooked pasta, dipping crusty bread or drizzling over fish or pizza after cooking—a highly flavored extra virgin oil is definitely worth the price.

Though you can see there are many options, some of them confusing, use these guidelines when shopping. If you are using olive oil for its health benefits, buy extra virgin olive oil all the time. Choose for yourself whether you prefer a mild or heartily flavored oil. If you are using olive oil for cooking, I’d choose a less flavorful oil (but not pomace oil), and then choose another more flavorful oil for finishing.

Lemon and Olive Oil Cake

This is really an opportunity to taste olive oil in action. The oven temperature is gentle enough that you’ll still notice the flavor of the olive oil—so use a mild one if that’s your style—and heartier oil if you want to be daring. Either way, this isn’t a sweet cake, but it’s a big treat in Italian kitchens, and goes well with coffee.

1 cup sugar
1 lemon, zested and juiced
3 eggs
1 ½ cups whole milk
1 cup extra virgin olive oil (your choice: hearty or mild)
1 ½ cups flour
½ cup coarse cornmeal
1 ½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt

Marmalade. fruit compote (citrus sections mixed with honey and allowed to set for an hour) or powdered sugar for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch round cake pan with olive oil. In a mixer, combine the sugar and lemon zest. Add the eggs and beat at medium speed until pale and fluffy, about 10 minutes. Mix in milk, oil and ¼ cup lemon juice.

In a separate bowl, mix flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix to combine. Scrape batter into prepared pan, and smooth the top.

Bake cake for 40 to 50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool five minutes, then remove from pan, and cool to room temperature.

Serve with marmalade and a sprinkling of powdered sugar, or a citrus compote. Serves 8.

Marinated Goat Cheese

8 ounces goat cheese
1 tablespoon pink peppercorns (or mixed peppercorns)
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 bay leaf
1 sprig of fresh thyme or rosemary
3 cloves garlic
½ cup extra virgin olive oil

Cut cheese into four rounds, and flatten slightly. Put in a heatproof dish. Sprinkle with peppercorns and crushed red pepper. Top with bay leaf and herbs. Scatter whole peeled garlic cloves over ingredients. Heat olive oil over low heat until warm. Pour over cheese, and allow to marinate at room temperature for an hour. Serve, or refrigerate. (Alternately, place all ingredients in a jar, and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.) Serve with crusty French bread. Serves 8.